Pot-melt is also called Aperture-melt. When first starting, I used a flower pot that is available at any nursery, the kind with the hole in the bottom. I found that the pot was usually to tall for my small kiln, so I bought only the flower pot tray that goes under the flower pot, and drilled my own hole. Then, in order to get more intricate results I drilled two or three holes. Each hole is an aperture. Then I began to skip the pot and use a steel wire mesh or grid.
Unfired glass is placed on the wire grid and is set into the kiln which will achieve a temperature of about 1700 degrees. The melted glass flows through the grid and onto the kiln shelf below. The glass cools and the cutting and grinding follow.
There is a definite down side to using steel. As the steel cools it will let off little particles of black carbon soot that can spoil a perfectly good piece of glass. The remedy is to remove the mesh before it starts cooling. That means that you have to protect your hands with heavy, heat resistant gloves.
At the point of retrieving the mesh a pair of really long tongs are required. At 1700 degrees or more, Act quickly and get your hand out of the glove as soon as you have parked the mesh on a fire proof stand.
Colorful as it may be, this piece is unusable for jewelry.
Here you can see the result of a melt where I didn’t sufficiently clean the aperture cup. There are long strings of soot throughout.
Below are two examples of what I consider clean settings.
Glass Enamel and silver filings
I used Bronze as the main body, attached the Potmelt glass, added the Enameled chip. The crystal is amethyst.
In a silver bezel, I used sheet glass, glass stringers, powdered enamel in blue and silver filings. If you are consulting warm glass and fusing books, these filings are under the “inclusions” section.
I have three new pieces that will be in upcoming projects.
But next is my show and tell about Enameled glass.